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2017年11月25日星期六

Christopher Ward C11 Makaira Pro



Já anteriormente apresentei um modelo da marca britânica Christopher Ward, o cronómetro C50 Malvern.
Conhecida sobretudo pelos seus relógios elegantes, a marca lançou no final de 2012 uma linha de relógios de mergulho designada C11 Makaira Pro, a qual conjuga um desenho especialmente feliz numa caixa estanque concebida para pressões até... 500 metros (50 atm)!
Este relógio com movimentos automáticos suíços (Selitta SW200-1) não é particularmente barato – custa cerca de 600 euros (£499] comprado diretamente no site da marca na versão com bracelete em borracha.
Mas é bom repetir isto novamente, muito d-e-v-a-g-a-r-i-n-h-o: 500 metros! A maioria dos relógios de mergulho de maior qualidade não ultrapassa os 300 metros, sendo 200 o valor mais comum. Um relógio de mergulho, ainda por cima automático, capaz de resistir a este tipo de pressões, é algo que nunca pode ser barato, pois não é apenas o movimento que está em causa, mas toda a construção do relógio.
Por outro lado, este é um dos relógios de mergulho mais bonitos que já vi, os quais tendem a ser todos semelhantes entre si. Aquilo que mais contribui para este desenho elegante é o facto de o bisel rotativo para controlo do tempo de mergulho ter sido, neste caso, substituído por um anel interno, o que permite um mostrador mais "limpo" (a rotação é feita através da segunda coroa que se encontra na posição das 2 horas). Outro ponto a favor, para quem como eu tem braços relativamente finos, é que o diâmetro é de apenas 42mm, um valor perfeitamente normal para um relógio de mergulho.
Este é o modelo C11-MAK-SKWSI com mostrador preto e numerais brancos e bracelete em borracha. Existem variações de cor e com bracelete em aço.

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2017年11月24日星期五

Christopher Ward C20 Lido – Steel Bracelet

Tenho um “problema grave” com os relógios da Christopher Ward: gosto de todos! OK, “todos” será talvez um exagero, mas esta é certamente uma das marcas cuja escola de design coincide quase a 100% com o meu gosto em relógios.
Este C20 Lido com bracelete em aço é exemplo do estilo understated da marca britânica que é tanto do meu agrado. Curiosamente, o mesmo relógio com bracelete em pele já não me parece tão bonito, devido ao desenho central da fixação da bracelete – nesta versão totalmente em aço, o resultado final é bastante harmonioso, mas o efeito com a bracelete em pele deixa-me dúvidas…
Este elegante dress watch tem proporções perfeitas para o meu gosto. A caixa tem um diâmetro de 40mm, valor que considero ideal para um relógio deste género; e a execução de três ponteiros com dia e data é um clássico que aprecio imenso, neste caso a partir de um movimento suíço ETA 2836-2 que funciona a 4 Hz (28.800 oscilações/hora).
O acabamento do mostrador, com um discreto guilloche no centro é, infelizmente, protegido por vidro mineral anti-reflexo, mas não por vidro de safira – o que acho lamentável num relógio que custa ainda assim umas substanciais £450. Caso a versão com bracelete em pele seja do seu agrado, o relógio fica por £399.

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2017年11月21日星期二

Vostok Europe Almaz 6S11-320H264



Almaz é o nome da nova gama da Vostok-Europe – a primeira (e, provavelmente última) que a marca lança em 2015. Esta coleção, cujo nome deriva do programa de estações espaciais da ex-URSS com o mesmo nome, possui mais de uma dezena de variantes, fruto da utilização de dois movimentos (automático Seiko NH-35A e cronógrafo Citizen 6S11 Chronograph Grande), três materiais para as caixas (titânio, aço e – pela primeira vez na marca – bronze) e diversas conjugações de cores e braceletes. Neste último caso, mais uma estreia na marca: as braceletes em aço são de malha milanesa.

De forma a otimizar a produção para oferecer estes relógios a preços competitivos, todas as variantes partilham a mesma caixa básica, a qual oferece uma elevada resistência à água de 20 atmosferas (200 metros). Todas as caixas têm as mesmas dimensões de 47 mm de diâmetro e 16mm de espessura e incluem coroa de rosca.

Este modelo que vos trago hoje tem a referência 6S11-320H264 e é uma das variantes com movimento cronógrafo numa caixa de titânio. Neste caso particular, a Vostok optou por uma conjugação de cores quase monocromática, com vários tons de cinzento, preto e branco apenas nos índices e ponteiros luminosos que me parece particularmente bem conseguida.

Ao contrário do que sucede com muitas marcas, a Vostok Europe mantém-se fiel a um número restrito de movimentos que, salvo raras exceções, têm origem Citizen (Miyota) ou Seiko (TimeModule). O Miyota 6S11 tem sido já usado pela marca em vários outros modelos; uma das suas particularidades é o facto de o ponteiro dos segundos se mover, em modo cronógrafo, com 4 “beats” por segundo –um movimento suave, aproximado aos dos movimentos automáticos – em vez de saltar de segundo em segundo como acontece normalmente nos movimentos de quartzo.

O relógio tem o preço de €399 com bracelete tipo NATO e €409 com bracelete em pele (como na foto). A comercialização em Portugal é feita pela SRI.

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2017年11月20日星期一

Steinhart Ocean Vintage GMT


Já sabem que a Steinhart é uma das minhas marcas B3 favoritas. E enquanto muitas outras conseguem oferecer relógios acessíveis optando por movimentos japoneses, a marca alemã continua a surpreender mantendo a oferta concentrada em torno de calibres suíços mas com um preço que sugeriria máquinas de outras proveniências.

Este Ocean Vintage GMT é mais um excelente exemplo da filosofia da marca. Baseado num movimento automático ETA 2893-2 com segundo fuso horário, a Steinhart procurou uma implementação original num relógio que pode também ser usado em mergulho, uma vez que oferece uma resistência à água até 300 metros.

Contudo, para tirar total partido do ponteiro adicional do segundo fuso horário, em vez de um bisel unidirecional graduado em minutos, a Steinhart optou por um bisel graduado em 24 horas, o que facilita a leitura imediata para quem esteja de viagem em paragens distantes.

As proporções são também muito boas, com uma caixa de 42mm de diâmetro e um bisel relativamente estreito. O conjunto é completado por uma bracelete em aço que reforça e prolonga a elegância das linhas do relógio. Tal como sucede em praticamente todos os modelos da marca alemã, o mostrador é protegido por vidro de safira.

O preço de tudo isto? Uns muito razoáveis 490 euros + 15€ de portes para Portugal.

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2017年11月18日星期六

A Short History of the Wristwatch

Over the centuries clocks have been used as a status symbol by those who wear them. Their precision, elegance and convenience are just some of the attributes that clocks and watches represent. Often they are bought purely for their aesthetic looks and at other times they are bought because of their technical attributes like being precise to the last second or even millisecond. This is what makes clocks and watches so collectible and in some cases they can command high sums of money.

Whether you collect the new high precision watches or ones that come from a past era, the fact is that over the years this hobby has become a high turnover business. And collecting watches is in a lot of circles regarded as a wise form of investing.

At the start of the last century the clocks that were available for men or women were firstly pocket clocks, and then clocks that held by a pendant attached to the lining of jackets or corsets. The advent of war, industrialization, and the development of the sport activities, brought over new trends which extended to not only the way we dressed, but also how we carried our clocks.

It is said that it was a nanny who invented wrist watches at around the end of the 19th century, who fixed a clock around her wrist by using a silk band. The first watches to be made were in fact smaller models of pocket clocks that were fitted with a leather strap. Once this product hit the market newer designs started to be produced based around this same concept.

It was Louis Cartier who first made the kind of watches we see today when he created a watch for a flying pioneer hero by the name Santos Dumont. By 1911 this same type of watch was on general sale. That same type of watch became the blueprint of what wrist watches look like to this day.

Soon after the design of wrist “clocks” began to diversify away from the classical round shape that had been in vogue up until that time. From the Cartier classical wrist watch other makes of watch started to emerge which were characterized by their shape. Movado is the perfect example of these new designs when it came out with the “Polyplan” shaped watch. Then came the famously and cryptically called “clock reference n. 1593″ by Patek Philippe which was a rectangular shaped watch.

From 1913 onwards more and more watches started to be developed in all shapes and styles. From the “gondola” watch of Patek Phillipe to Louis Cartiers’ “Tank”; named thus because it was inspired by the shape of English armored cars of the time. These are watches which are very much sought after. There were other numerous watch makers like Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin who along with Patek Philippe and Cartier came out with many other designs which added other features to the watches like lunar phases, month and day most of which are found in modern watches now.

Of course we could not mention wrist watches without mentioning the most famous of them all: the Rolex watch. In the 1920s Rolex debuted in the world of wrist watches with the elegant Rolex Prince and its revolutionary “dual time” feature made famous for having the “seconds sector” larger than that of the minutes. At the same time Jaeger Le Coultre produced an even more advanced piece called the “Reverse”, also very revolutionary in that it could be turn 180 degrees within its case, thus protecting the crystal and dial. It became incredibly popular and was only prevented from achieving even greater success by the recession of the 1930s and the advent of World War 2.

These early watches of the 1910s to 1930s are what define all the makes of watches that we see and wear today. This short article has only scratched the surface of what is a very vast subject which has many more watch makers with diverse and revolutionary designs. However it is makers like Rolex, Cartier, Jaeger Le Coultre and the others mentioned that are amongst the most valuable and collectible, and should you ever be so lucky to get one then make sure you hang on to it – preferably to your wrist.

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2017年11月17日星期五

Primavera hat begonnen!

Wir bei der SwissWatchExpo sind absolut unempfänglich für unsere Liebe zum IWC Portugiesisch und hoffen, dass Sie sich alle gleich fühlen. Was ist nicht zu lieben über ein klares, sauberes Kleid-Design in einem großen fleischigen Fall gehalten? Nun, nicht jede Situation erfordert einen Anzug und eine Krawatte, und mit der Milde des Frühlings endlich auf uns, ist es Zeit, sich zu verkleiden, genießen Sie die Natur zur Abwechslung. Für diejenigen von euch in diesem Geisteszustand haben wir eine wunderschöne


Nur für Mitglieder

Portugiesischer Yachtclub für Sie! Wie der Name schon sagt, ist dies eine größere, sportlichere Variante des Portugiesischen, perfekt um auf die Wellen zu gehen, aber stilvoll genug, um es ins Büro zu bringen. Im Einklang mit seiner sportlichen Natur, hat der Yachtclub ein etwas größeres Gehäuse bei 45,4 mm, ein Kautschukband und Kronenschutz, um es beim Angeln, Surfen, Haikämpfen, Wal-Wranglin 'oder was auch immer es ist, was Sie tun möchten, sicher zu halten. auf dem Wasser. Wenn Sie das warme Wetter in diesem Frühjahr nutzen möchten, sollten Sie auf eine Uhr achten, die das Gleiche sucht! Die Tage werden länger, aber die Gelegenheit, den Yachtclub nach Hause zu nehmen, ist es nicht.

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2017年11月9日星期四

Switzerland in Autumn Is a Watch Lover's Delight



With Labor Day behind us, many of our readers are returning to a more business state of mind. Some, however, may still be in travel mode. Let’s face it, going to Europe is so much nicer in the fall when the tourist crowds have thinned out and the heat has let up. So, for those watch lovers considering a trip this September or October, may we recommend the following dream vacation?

Traveling to Switzerland is like a journey to the heart of time. Geneva and its outlying cantons — especially those northern towns, such as Neuchatel, Le Locle, Villeret and other great cities — offer not only breathtaking views of the country’s forests, the Jura Mountains and the Alps, but also of the finest watches in the world (not to mention chocolates and cheese!).



Additionally, with a visit to La Chaux–de-Fonds and Le Locle, one can check off another box in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Five years ago, in 2009, both of these “manufacture towns” joined the select UNESCO list. The towns were built by and for the watchmaking world back in the end of the 17th century, when farmers turned to watchmaking to idle away the tough, long winter hours and to earn an income to supplement their non-existent crops in winter. The art caught on and the region produced clocks and travel watches for clients around the world — making it a unique place of interest. Among the brands located in this region are Corum, Montblanc, Hermes, Girard-Perregaux, Omega, TAG Heuer, Greubel-Forsey, Longines and others.



Since the cities came under the UNESCO list, Neuchatel tourism has increased significantly, and the tourist department has even developed an exclusive program that allows watch-loving tourists to discover the region’s rich history. They have worked with certain watch brands and museums to encourage them to open their doors for tours. Today, some brands offer tours on specific days via reservation.



No visit to the region — watch lover or not — is complete without a trip to each of the top two world-class watch museums. The International Museum of Horology in La Chaux-de-Fonds (Musee international d’Horlogerie) and the Le Locle Watch Museum (Musee d’Horlogerie, Chateau des Monts) are both universally acclaimed for the quality, breadth and scope of their collections and for their tireless efforts to offer a high-caliber cultural experience with each visit. Both museums have exhibits that include early automatons, watchmaking benches, tools and more. The timepieces include early clocks, travel clocks, pocket watches and astronomical timepieces that span decades and demonstrate the evolution of time. Additionally, certain brands located in the region have their own museums that visitors can tour.



Among the many other watch-related sites worth seeing as one tours these cities are statues dedicated to watchmaking forefathers, flower clocks and the nearly 1,000-year old clock tower in Neuchatel. Once there, don’t miss the amazing opportunity to stay at the incredible Hotel Palafitte – with its individual rooms built as bungalows on docks over Lake Neuchatel. This hotel was originally built for the Swiss National Exhibition more than a decade ago and has become a landmark stop, not to mention a truly unforgettable hotel experience.



Of course, there are a host of other important watchmaking cities and regions in Switzerland, and we will bring you a little tour of those in coming months. Meanwhile, if you want to whet your appetite for fine Swiss timing, stop in and see our vast selection of Swiss-made watches.

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2017年11月8日星期三

What You Need to Know About Watch Warranties

All watch brands offer a warranty with their timepieces. Many offer a one-year warranty, while others offer two or three years. It is rare that a brand offers more than three years, but it does happen.

Exactly what a warranty offers you varies company by company. Some guarantees and warranties cover repairs of any sort; others are more selective. It is always a good thing to know what type of warranty is offered with the timepiece you are buying. Our associates are always pleased to review the warranty, but if you are looking around, here are a few important things to know about a warranty.



-- How long is the warranty? One to two years is the norm.

-- What exactly will the warranty cover? Most warranties will cover manufacture defects and/or material defects, but will not cover repairs needed due some sort of accidental breakage. Sometimes the warranty will only cover the case and movement, not the crystal, dial or strap. You need to know what is covered.

-- If there is a repair needed on the watch, will it be fixed by the brand itself, or by a third party? The answer to this question often impacts the amount of time you will be without your watch. Shipping a timepiece to the brand's service center, if it is not in the USA, can add weeks to the process simply because of the vast amounts of paperwork involved and because of customs regulations.

-- Is the warranty void if repairs are not carried out by authorized service centers?Often, if a watch is repaired without going through the proper channels and service centers, the warranty becomes void, because the brand does not know if the service or repair was done to its standards.

If you have any questions at all about a warranty, we are here to help.

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2017年11月5日星期日

A Close-Up Look at the Evolution of Watch Cases



Last week we covered how new materials are influencing watch performance both inside and out. In one of those posts we discussed how materials for cases, bezels, bracelets and straps are becoming more advanced in terms of durability, lighter weight and scratch resistance.

However, what we haven’t talked about is the very essence of the watch: the case itself. In fact, one of the most important design elements of a timepiece is its shape. From round to rectangular, from square to oblong, the look of a watch determines its appeal – and that starts with the case shape and its profile.

All cases are not created equal. A watch case can be artful, thoughtful, simple and elegant, or it can be bold, three dimensional, rugged and high tech in nature. One case may be easier to machine and put together than another case. In fact, cases can be milled from a solid block of material or can have dozens — even hundreds — of parts that must be put together.



In the early years of the 20th century, during the Art Deco period, many cases were square and rectangular (such as the famed Cartier Tank or the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso). The Roaring Twenties yielded unusually shaped geometric cases and ergonomically curved cases, as well. However, by the late 1930s and into the 1940s and 1950s, we began seeing more round watches. This is because people were beginning to demand water resistant watches, and it was much easier to make a round watch water resistant than a square one with so many edges and angles.

Once the utilitarian need of water resistance was conquered, brands began working on cases that became art – and new shapes appeared, including sculpted cases, coin cases, Dali-inspired shapes and more.



Today’s luxury watch brands offer a case for everyone. While certain sports watch companies may mill a case from a single block of metal to render it more sturdy and rugged, other brands build complex cases with dozens of parts to demonstrate their abilities to produce a case worthy of the movement inside. These multiple-part cases are no weaker or less water resistant than a solid-block case, as long as the brand has focused on gaskets, fittings, screw-lock casebacks and crowns, and an overall precision interplay of parts.



The making of a watchcase starts from a mold—a plaster-like or 3-D printed rendition of what the case will look like. When all the parts and angles are approved, the case material is selected and high-precision cutting machines mill the case parts (lugs, sides, back, bezel, etc.). Each of these parts is then fitted together and properly fastened and finished with stunning angles, bevels and more — all of which lead to a highly recognizable finished timepiece.



It is no easy feat making a case that is distinguishable from across a crowded room, but top watch brands do it. Stop into our store anytime and we can do a side-by-side comparison of some of the finest cases and shapes on the market.

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2017年11月4日星期六

replica Rolex Website Will It Work

That site is Chinese owned. It is hosted in the Netherlands. It has existed less than a year. He only registered for one year. It is owned by Zhu Wen, and he has been reported as a known scammer who owns many credit card phishing sites. According to scamadvisor the site has a trust rating of zero. That is the lowest I have ever seen.

I did not have to visit the site to obtain the above. I would not even try because it probably tries to install spyware on your computer. Please tell me you have heard of scamadvisor and whois? Why do you not know how to look this stuff up? And why are you shopping on the Internet without basic internet skills? I am pretty sure they teach this stuff in grade school now. Take a class on how to use the Internet instead of buying a watch. This stuff is pretty basic.

BTW: According to scamadvisor the owner has spent only about $355 setting up his web site. Only one person has to give him a credit card number, and he has made his money back many times over. Not too many people are gullible enough to fall for such an obvious scam. You can be his first victim.

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2017年11月2日星期四

Exzentrische klassische LCD

Heute bin ich wieder dabei, die wenig bekannten Modeuhren wieder zu vermarkten.

Dies ist die dritte Uhr, die ich von einer Marke namens Eccentric Classic von medistore (oder Medi Store je nachdem, wie Sie schreiben) gebloggt habe. Ich habe nicht mehr herausfinden können, als ich letztes Mal gebloggt habe, wobei medistore eine Firma ist, die sich normalerweise auf Body Piercing-Accessoires spezialisiert (aber mehr kann in meinem letzten Post gefunden werden).

Dieses Modell ist ein ganz anderer Stil als die vorherigen zwei, mit einem LCD-Display statt Zifferblatt. Die Uhr ist rechteckig, mit goldfarbenen Balken oben und unten an einem schwarzen zentralen Quadrat. In der Mitte des schwarzen Quadrats befindet sich ein großes 4-stelliges inverses LCD-Display, das in zwei zweistellige Zeilen unterteilt ist. Es gibt eine Schaltfläche zum Ändern der Anzeige auf der rechten Seite, aber es werden nur Datum und Sekunden angezeigt.

Die Uhr hat das Branding durchgehend, mit dem exzentrischen Namen auf der Unterseite des Gesichts und der Schnalle, und der volle Name der Eccentric Classic befindet sich auf der Rückenplatte und der Rückseite des Lederarmbands. Es gibt keine Modellnummer oder ein anderes Kennzeichen, mit der einzigen anderen Information, dass es alles aus rostfreiem Stahl und wasserbeständig ist.

Ich weiß nicht, wann die Uhr ist, aber es ist wahrscheinlich zwischen 2000 und heute.


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2017年11月1日星期三

Benetton von Bulova Cartoon Ausrufezeichen

Da es Freitag ist, habe ich mich entschlossen etwas Buntes zu tragen und habe mir eine Uhr aus meiner scheinbar sehr großen Benetton by Bulova Uhrensammlung ausgesucht.

Die Uhr wurde von der Uhrenmanufaktur Bulova für die Modemarke Benetton hergestellt, und ich habe in früheren Beiträgen so viele dieser Uhren behandelt, also werde ich hier nicht ins Detail gehen.

Bei diesem Modell handelt es sich um das typische 3-Zeiger-Design mit der Standard-Gehäuseform, diesmal jedoch mit dem Gehäuse in Schwarz. Das Design für dieses spezielle Modell ist ein Pop-Art-Cartoon-Stil, mit dem Gesicht in grünen Punkten auf einem hellblauen Hintergrund bedeckt. Statt der 9 auf dem Zifferblatt gibt es ein kurviges Apostroph-Symbol, und vor der 3 ist ein riesiges Ausrufezeichen. Der Riemen hat ein passendes Design, aber diesmal mit rückseitigen Punkten auf einem grünen Hintergrund, und hat Cartoon-Explosionen und ein "One Way" -Schild.

Die Benetton by Bulova Serie begann in den 90ern, aber ich weiß noch nicht, wann sie endeten.



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